Itried everything Icould think of, and of course even with the NIC enabled in the BIOS nothing was working. The light would flash when you plugin the cable for a second, but that's all.
Due to another issue I'm about to post about (server is not compatible with 1TB/1000Gig Hard Drives), I updated the BIOS. I didn't even know the 100mbit NICs were not working untilI decided I should test each NIC one by one.
Inoticed that only 1 server out of the stack I have had a working 100mbit NIC. I was thinking what are the chances of this and how could all of the 100mbit NICs be bad? ThenI realized 1 server actually worked with the 100mbit NIC and it turned out that was the one I got the latest BIOS update for.
So if you have a Tyan 2735-8Mmotherboard and the 100mbit NIC is not working, update your BIOS (upgrades available from the Tyan website)and you'll be good to go.
I guess this probably goes for other Tyan motherboards and even motherboards from mother manufacturers. It is a bit ridiculous though that in the original firmware they made such an oversight that the 100mbit NIC doesn't even work. This must have caused many sysadmins/IT techs headaches, headscratching and frustration.
Inever saved any of the logs, but basically no matter what OS (Linux)I used, I could not get my 1000GB hard drive to work (Seagate SATA). The BIOS recognizes the drive and fdisk -l shows the hard drive as it should.
The tricky thing is that different OS's will give you different results, but don't be fooled. You can't use these larger drives for long. Iwas getting all kinds of seek/IOerrors and also messages that the port could not be read.
In one custom kernel Ihad, what would happen is that after attempting to format a 900GB partition, the whole drive became invisible and inaccessible to the kernel (if you attempt to format a smaller amount it might work, but make no mistake it will be unstable and the symptoms Idescribe will invetiably happen at some point and fortunately I discovered it before putting these into production again). An fdisk -l would only show the 500GB drive and not the 1000GB drive. Updating the BIOS to Tyan's latest did not help either.
In Centos 5.3 the symptoms Ihad were the same messages, but a worse effect. After the I/Oerrors it caused both SATA ports to become unusable at that point, so you couldn't run any command on your server until you reboot. I'm sure this is a limitation of the BIOS or SATA chipset and I don't see any work around, this is either a BIOS or SATA chipset issue and I doubt Tyan has any plans for an update (considering the last update was in 2005). I hope this saves someone else the trouble, hassle and headache.
I know for sure 500GB Seagate drives work, since this is what I have in them. I'm not sure if 750GB would work since I don't have any of those drives around.
I was starting to panic because suddenly my 1TB Seagate SATA drive wasn't working,I thought it was a BIOS issue because it seemed to have happened after I tried overclocking my Desktop too much.
I tried powering down and waiting, but I still couldn't hear the drive spin up at all. I tried a second 1TB hard drive and it wouldn't work either. I checked all power connections again and again until one of the pins in the MOLEX connector popped completely loose.
This was a small problem but who knows how long one could troubleshoot not knowing it is the connector ? It looked fine until I moved it by accident and the pin moved completely out of the socket.
I guess if a drive is not being detected I always remember this and to ensure the pins in any MOLEX are good. It's a relief and a big embarassment that the problem with my 1TB Seagate SATA drive was just because of 1 loose pin on the MOLEX power connector.
I bought a Dynatron A46G for my AMD X4 620 AM3 Quad Core CPU. Just judging by touch, the stock OEM fan/heatsink combo kept things so cool, I could leave the 1U server on the floor and it barely felt warm to the touch, including the heatsink itself.
I thought the Dynatron A46G would be enough with passive cooling (it has no fan), but the same setup became burning hot on the underside of the server and also by touching the heatsink itself within minutes.
I thought that the Dynatron A46G wasn't doing a good job and thought the stock heatsink without a fan (disconnected) would be better. I was wrong and got the same results with the stock heatsink, it's amazing how a tiny fan adds so much extra cooling.
Now I need to find another solution or find a way to get more airflow via a small 40MMexhaust fan and see if that helps with the A46G.
NewEgg is one of the few companies that stocks this great right angle 1U SATA power cable. I've purchased some no-name ones and they face the wrong way (towards the bottom of the chassis) which makes it worse/impossible than standard SATA connectors.
The price is high but if you're building a 1U server and want SATA disks and don't have much space (eg. the 1U Supermicro cases) then these are simply a must and worth the money you pay. On the other hand I've found it very easy to find proper 1U right angle SATA cables, but the power has always been the annoying and tricky thing.
I played around with xmit power (how much power in mW) to see if I could increase the range and signal strength. Idon't think this Linksys WRT54G's strength is the wireless, it seems to have poor signal quality and transfer rates all around.
Ithink part of the problem is also that there are several wireless networks around my house that could be interfering and the walls are thick here.
Anyaway, moving on now :) The default is 28mW and I increased it to 50mW and things improved slightly but I still didn't feel the signal strength was consistent enough on my iPhone (then again it is the iPhone and the WiFi is not especially great on it to to begin with).
Then I cranked it up to 70mW and as some said, higher power levels actually decreased my signal strength and throughput. I couldn't even ping the gateway most of the time, so I lowered the setting to 60mW.
I've found 60 to be a great choice. I really think it's time to upgrade/change my router to one that is known to have a stronger signal in general. I just don't feel that the wireless in the WRT54G is very strong to begin with.
I imagine if I find a better router that turning up the xmit power would do a lot more, but at any rate, there's always a certain power level you hit where the signal strength and quality actually gets worse. The other issue to remember is that high power levels could reduce the life of the router by generating a lot more heat.
I've read people talking about using 200+ mW for distances over a number of kilometers, however I have no idea how true that is but I'd be interested to test that theory if I ever got the chance. One thing for sure is that if you crank up the power that high you better have extra cooling such as an external fan or even a small 40MMfan inside the enclosure itself to cool things off.
All you have to do is browse to:
C:Documents & SettingsYourUserName and you'll see the following:
Inside "My Recent Documents" are of course shortcuts to the most recent documents you opened
Inside "SendTo" is your sendto, you could edit that to Send a file to a network destination, your Flash Drive etc..
Inside "Start Menu" is everything in your Start Menu of course.
Inside "Templates" is where you find the shortcuts inside "Right click". File -> New
This is useful because for whatever reason you may want to edit items in those folders for various reasons.
I'm guessing RAM manufacturers forgot they're not the oil/gas companies and are playing games. It was just a year ago when I was buying 2GB sticks as low as $20 CAD! Now the average price is $50 CAD.
What happened to Moore's law when it comes to pricing for RAM? Every other piece of hardware generally has been coming down without exception.
I'm not a fan of Asus and won't be buying another because of having to fight Asus over a bogus warranty denial (it's a long story but they only replied about how to RMA my unit weeks later on the EXACT day the warranty expired).
Anyway, it's just a matter of hitting F9 to do this, there's no need to worry about booting from USB or CD (unless of course you want a different OS eg. Windows XP Pro, Vista/7, or a flavor of Linux or Unix). Also remember that you need to fully/properly power off your system to do this, rebooting is not enough. If you still don't see the BIOS Setup Prompt, you'll have to remove your battery and re-insert it.
Basically once you hit F9 the restore partition boots a version of Norton Ghost and it restores everything to the factory settings based on the ghost image sitting on the hidden FAT partition.
There is some weird quirk that Asus (at least Eee PC's) love not to let you into the BIOS except when it first thinks you are powering on. This is very annoying if you wanted to boot from CD or USB.
I took an educated guess because it kept happening at the same spot when loading the XP install. I thought it was the hard drive or motherboard.
But it turns out my heavily used but loved NEC 3500 DVD-RW drive was the culprit. After disconnecting it and swapping it for another much beloved Pioneer DVD-RW, everything has gone smoothly.
I never ran into this or many issues because I've hardly used this drive since moving it to another Desktop years ago. I actually wonder if it's the lack of usage that killed it, but in any case everything is great now.
We have memtest, SMART (smartctl in Linux) to give us an idea of how our memory and drives are doing, but there's nothing out there to see if an optical drive is faulty/causing crashes.
I've never encountered this before and I'm sure it's thrown many people for a loop. I'm just glad that I'm happily installing Windows on this other system after replacing the DVD drive.
So if you're getting the BSOD on a system that worked normally fine during the Windows XP CD install, consider swapping the optical dirve and see if it makes a difference, it did for me.
I'm not impressed with this motherboard, I was impressed with my Gigabyte AM3 board which seems to work flawlessly.
Everyone knows that the firmware is flawed, even though I have the F6, it still seems that the system doesn't reset properly or quickly enough.
Another HUGE problem is that in most Linux kernels the NIC won't work (if you try 10 times by rebooting it might). I also notice that you need to power down for it to work.
This board does not seem very competent or stable for normal use. I was really starting to like Gigabyte but they really made a lot of mistakes with this board and are still working the bugs out even with the latest F6 firmware.
Do you have an LGA1156 board and wonder why your onboard video isn't working? It's probably because there is no GPU integrated on the board itself, it is supposed to be on the CPU and new CPU's from Intel don't come with it!
I was shocked to learn that you can buy a motherboard with onboard video which doesn't work. Inever knew it was being done or possible, but to make it worse the latest Core i5's don't have video on the die of the CPU.
This means having on-board video is useless and meaningless. It took my surprise and caught me off guard and there's a lot of other builders/techs that don't know or will find out the hard/annoying way like I did.
To make it more confusing, I believe CPU's before my Core i5 750 DO have the video on the CPU die (Core I3's and Clarkdale I5's), so some may still be caught off guard. This is a really silly move by Intel which makes no sense at all.
I think I'll stick to AMD and go with a 6-core option.
I found that wattage/power consumption tool to be very useful, especially when you're worried that you're hitting the Power Supply's limit. You'll see very quickly that different CPU's, Graphics, Cards, HDDS use a wide range of energy. That tool can help you choose a build that won't stress or go over the maximum limits of your Power Supply.
My XBOX's dashboard/firmware was from sometime in 2008 when I first bought the system. I mainly played using composite cables but at my brother in law's house we used HDMI. The very first time it worked, but then I bought some games that did some update and after that HDMI never worked.
The symptoms besides having on sound is that your XBOX will show PC monitor resolutions but won't have any option to say you have a 720P or 1080P display, this means the XBOX firmware is faulty/defective because it can't recognize that you have an HDMI cable plugged in.
This happened on two different TV's with different cables, I tried the unplugging the cable and plugging it back in trick and powering/on off the TV and XBOX etc... I have no idea why anyone suggested that because it never worked for me in any case.
The problem is that your dashboard is out of date and is buggy/defective.
The Right Trigger/Y Startup Trick Did not Help
I tried all the tricks such as the "holding the right trigger and Y trick" during startup.
There was no Disable Display Discovery or Disable Display Detction in my Options/Dashboard/Display
That's when I decided to update my dashboard, after that my HDMI sound worked because the XBOX 360 finally realized Ihad an HDMI cable plugged in . I did however have to Disable Display Discovery or whatever it is called (you finally get that option once you update the dashboard).
Click here to download the latest firmware (don't worry if you don't have an XBOX HDD, it will at least update the dashboard before saying that you don't have enough space to install the upate).
I used my USB drive to download the update, here is the link from Microsoft to download it: http://download.microsoft.com/download/1/d/8/1d8c09be-278e-41cd-98be-eb9188128227/$systemupdate9199.zip
After that sound over HDMI will work with your XBOX 360.
I bought the 1TB Deskstar C revision recently at just $49 each and put them in RAID 1for my Desktop.
Look at how close the old Deskstar 1TB comes to matching the performance of the mor expensive Samsung and WD's?
This is phenomal, I can't believe the performance I've gotten out of these cheap drives.
My mother needed a new laptop and I recommended her the same one I would have bought myself or my wife, that means the cheapest possible laptop with the most features for the money.
This HP shines at this price point and one thing that made me stay away from buying more and recommending HP/Compaq was the poor battery life. Not anymore, this model has an industry leading up to 4 hours of battery life.
Key Factors for Choosing It:
Radeon 4250 HD Graphics (no Intel, I hate Intel graphics)
4 Hour Battery Life
Best Value Overall Performance vs Features
AMD-V Hardware Virtualization
Dual Core/High Performance AMD CPU
4Gigs of RAM
You can get a great deal like this and anyone who knows the specs properly can too. For $399.99 CAD on sale you can't beat these features, typically they make you pay for more expensive laptops that offer little more for the high price just to get that builti-in cardreader and HDMI out you can pay hundreds more.
This is a budget/value laptop but I don't see why you'd need to spend more, this laptop is powerful and can handle decent gaming with the ATI 4250 Graphics card. It's not worth spending 2-3x more when this does the job well.
My philosophy with computer hardware is to spend the least amount of money but get the most for it (shop smart). A dollar saved today is worth $2-3 down the road because of how far technology progresses. That and I keep in mind that laptops don't often last long and weren't designed to (there's no way they couldn't find a better way to cool laptops and prevent a single vent from causing a motherboard meltdown).
Processor Brand: AMD
Processor Type: Athlon™ II; Processor Chipset: N/A
Processor Speed: 2.2GHz
Bus Speed: 3.2 GT/s
Level 2 cache: 1MB
RAM expandable to: 8GB
Memory Type (RAM): DDR3
Hard drive size: 500GB
Hard drive speed: 5400RPM
DVD Drive: DVD-Super 8x Multi Double layer
Blu-ray Disc Drive: No
Burns DVDs: Yes
Display Type: LED
Display Size: 15.6"
Screen resolution: 1366 x 768
Backlit display: N/A
USB 2.0: Yes
DVI (digital video interface): No
Wireless/Wi-Fi: Yes, 802.11b/g/n
Dial-up Modem: N/A
Bluetooth Capabilities: No
Video Card: ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 4250; Dedicated Video Memory: 1789MB
Shared Video Memory: N/A
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit Edition
Preloaded Software: Microsoft® Office 2010 starter(purchase of Product Key required to activate full suite)
Battery Type: Li-ion
Battery Size: 6-cell
Battery Voltage: 47WHr
Battery Life: 4 hours
Battery Charge Time: N/A
Rechargeable Battery: Yes
Built-in Microphone: Yes
Height: 3.18cm(min H), 3.66cm (max H)
Manufacturer's Part Number: XZ256UA#AB
Product Warranty: 1-year
I've thought for awhile that Asus has been banking on its years old reputation for quality amongst gamers and enthusiasts and I think I'm right. My Asus VE247H Monitor with a supposed 2MS refresh rate has 1 red/stuck/dead pixel but fortunately it can only be seen on a non-true black picture or against a blue screen.
I have several Asus products and find they're all of fairly poor quality. First of all their motherboards have given me the most issues of any brand, they tend to be unstable and some models have crashed during heavy IO. This is off-topic but Gigabyte is my favorite MB manufacturer, they have great features, prices and most of all have been the most dependable for me.
As someone on a forum pointed out, ASUS has decided to tell us what the "ultimate viewing experience" is and that it's 3 to 5 defective pixels. But like most normal humans, the ultimate viewing experience is obviously 0 pixels........wait but when I bought an ASUS I agreed to that it's 3-5 dead pixels :)
ASUS conforms to the acceptance level between 3 to 5 defective bright/dark pixels. In order to deliver ultimate vision experience to ASUS customer, if your panel is less than or equal to the above number of dots, then, it is considered as an acceptable LCD monitor
I bought my monitor from DirectCanada and they won't RMA it because they have to follow the manufacturer's policies which also applies to Newegg and most other discount etailers. I don't blame DirectCanada but rather Asus.
At the end of the day I'm frustrated by this stuck red pixel but at least it's not noticeable in most situations, rather than being completely dead and for the price I paid I couldn't have gotten a bigger screen.
It should be noted that Asus doesn't even make this screen, it's made by Ancor Communications according to NVIDIA's Linux driver. I guess you get what you pay for.
You could try using this online tool to identify and fix bad pixels:
It hasn't worked for me but I swear the dead pixel is slightly less noticeable/bright now. Maybe I'll let this program run overnight and check the results. It's worth noting that some users have reported that over time these red pixels sometimes disappear. I also read applying gentle pressure to the area can help but it didn't for me.
Read the Asus Dead Pixel Policy
LCD Panel Bright/Dark Dot Warranty & Regulation
Since LCD panel is made up of millions of micro electronic pixels, if one pixel no longer functions normally, it will become a bright or dark dot. By ISO 13406-2 standards, ASUS conforms to the acceptance level between 3 to 5 defective bright/dark pixels. In order to deliver ultimate vision experience to ASUS customer, if your panel is less than or equal to the above number of dots, then, it is considered as an acceptable LCD monitor.In addition, the Premium Range of ASUS LCDs offers a unique Zero Bright Dot (ZBD) warranty.Please refer to ASUS LCD Monitor Bright/Dark Dot Warranty Table below.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR LCD:
Turn off the LCD if you will not use it for a long time. Doing this will help you save electric power consumption and prolong your LCD's life.
Do not touch the LCD with your fingers, sharp, and/or hard object so as not to scratch the LCD.
Use monitor-cleaning sheet to lightly wipe off dirt from the LCD. Do not use your fingers!
Do not use any chemicals or detergents to clean the LCD.
Use screen saver to avoid the damage caused by long-term static (non-moving) images displayed.
ASUS LCD Monitor Bright/Dark Dot Warranty Tableï¼š
: General ZBD Models
: PA Series
: Non-ZBD Models
A Pixel consists of sub-pixels: one red, one green and one blue dot. A bright dot is a sub-pixel that is always on under Black pattern. A dark dot is a sub-pixel that is always off under any pattern.
Micro Dot, less than or equal to 1/2 dot (50μmφ), is excluded in the warranty
Non-ZBD/ZBD warranty models may vary from different regions.
Fortunately the format is EATX so an EATX case will work and the screw layout is standard.
You will need to remove the HEX/TORX screws that are connecting the stock HP standoffs (meant to slide into an HP case).
XW9400 Motherboard Issues
Size: 12" x 13"
Proprietary Power Connector
Proprietary CPU Power Connector
Proprietary Memory Power Connector
Fan connectors are 4 pin so you will need some kind of adapter.
One very nice feature is that it has 6 SATA ports and a whopping 8 SAS ports as well (which of course can be used for SATA)if you really think you can use or fit 14 drives.
Case LED/Power/Reset Connections are not specified or mapped (can be done with trial and error)
The biggest dilemma is which way to go?
Icould buy an HP Case but it is not clear which ones will fit (although most of the XW8 to XW9 series seem to appear the same). No matter what you do you will need an HPPower Supply unless you can hack your own adapter (for some servers like Z800 there is such an adapter but Ihave not found one for this board).
Power Supply Part#'s (not verified)
Delta DPS1050CB 1050W HP P/N 440860-001 (SPARE) 442038-001
There also seems to be a lower wattage model from the XW8400 that is supposed to work.
Delta DPS-825AB B 800W Power Supply 405351-003
Link to HPManual:
If you get that message it means you have inserted the adapter or device incorrectly. In my case the adapter needed to be at the rear end of the pins and it caused this message.
Do not ignore this message as it may appear to work but you will get errors and in reality your chip will not be erased or programmed even if it appears like it is working.
1.) Flash directly to this file:
*I was never able to get the larger "Mega" file to work, at least not initially so I recommend the file above.
To enable 5ghz I had to do the "Clear NVRAM" Option before it was shown.
2.) Or if you don't need 5ghz (most devices do not support it and cannot see it) I prefer DD-WRT:
Latest versions here:
dd-wrt upgrade problems when you have more than one unit that you have accessed before from the same browser.
Clear cache and cookies
#when upgrading make sure you choose reset to firmware defaults or you may have problems getting web interface after like me!
I could not even reboot the connection would reset on me until I cleared cache and cookies it seems it was inteferring from another dd-wrt that was on the same
After upgrading only telnet was up (no port 80 web interface):
Connected to 192.168.1.1.
Escape character is '^]'.
DD-WRT v3.0-r29218 mega (c) 2016 NewMedia-NET GmbH
Linksys E2500 login: root
___ ___ _ _____ ______ ____ ___
/ _ / _ ___| | /| / / _ /_ __/ _ __|_ / / _
/ // / // /___/ |/ |/ / , _/ / / | |/ //_
unable to connect to camera. Camera has been disabled becaue of security policies or is being used by other apps
They say to do a factory reset but in some cases it doesn't work and the camera mysteriously just won't work so it appears to be a hardware error if that happens.